The Proposal

All good New Years start with a lie in and Sarah and I having failed to have seen in the New Year thought we better not fail on the obligatory lie in. We were both quietly stoked not to be waking up with a thumping head due to our early night and lack of alcoholic consumption the previous day. So we arose feeling rather chipper at around half 10 and decided that the Louvre would be our destination for the day. Once we had our gear on and I once again made sure that my pocket contained a certain small box having carried it around all of the previous day we wandered out into the New Year.

We headed in to the Louvre via the Metro and entered the shopping mall below the great museum. Here we seized on the photo opportunity by the inverted glass pyramid that corresponds with Ming Pei's grand entrance to the museum. Those Dan Brown fans will also recognise this spot where the inverted pyramid meets a small marble pyramid as the place Professor Langdon believes the Holy Grail to lie in the bestselling book The Da Vinci Code. Unfortunately the museum was closed for the day so we decided to grab a bite to eat at Starbucks as we were craving something a little more familiar. It was during this moment of respite that Sarah thought that she was experiencing an earthquake as the metro rumbled by below us. After refueling we reemerged above ground and decided to walk down to Notre Dame and take a look inside. It was at this moment that I thought I would ensure that the route we took down to Notre Dame would pass a lovely little park right at the tip of Ile de la Cité. We proceeded to walk along the right bank to Pont Neuf the oldest bridge to cross the Seine and which provided access to the aforementioned Vert Galant park. To access the park you have to descend a set of stairs behind the statue of King Henry IV at the centre of the bridge. It took a little bit of encouragement to coax Sarah down the stairs to the park but this first stage was negotiated with reasonable ease.

Stage two saw us venturing to the tip of the island to take in the city from river level. Unfortunately we were joined at the tip of the island by a couple who proceeded to engage in a rather passionate embrace. This became a little awkward and we retired to a bench just behind the point of the island. We chatted for a while here on the seat and I wondered if this was the spot to pop the question. However at the same time I was willing the couple to get off the tip so I could take Sarah back out there to do the job properly. Not long after the couple moved on and it was all in front of me. I suggested to Sarah that we head back out for a smooch. Fortunately she was keen on the idea and when we got out there she gave me the perfect pop pass of a question which I steamed onto, "What are you thinking at the moment?" My response was...

"Just how much I love you and how I want to spend the rest of my life with you..." At this point I reached into my jacket pocket and grabbed the ring and said "How about we make it official." I dropped to a knee, "Sarah Annabel Louise White will you marry me?!" Amidst tears and laughter Sarah responded in the affirmative. Happy New Year!!

A Tower, A Circus, A Cruise...

New Year's Eve started with a bang at around 7am as we wanted to beat the queues at the Tour Eiffel. We surfaced from the Metro at Trocadero. For those of you who have been to Paris before will know this offers a great reveal of the Tour for first time viewers. And so it proved to be for one Sarah Annabel Louise whose jaw dropped as she rounded the corner of the City of Architecture and Heritage building onto the Esplanade du Trocadero. Sarah was overwhelmed at the sheer size of the Tour and became nervous about heading to the top. This anxiety heightened as we approached the Tour and made it underneath where we queued for 45mins to get our tickets. The day was overcast and quite windy but that did not detract from the experience and within an hour we were inside the North Pilier aboard our first lift up to the second level of the tower. Out in the fresh conditions Sarah was able to spot some of the sights that we had taken in over the previous three days and as she got more comfortable with her surroundings was able to loosen her grip of Mark's arm! After circumnavigating the second level we got back into... you guessed it a queue for the second lift up to the top observation deck. The tension levels ratcheted up again inside the elevator as you are able to see out the side windows of the elevator but also above you through panels in the ceiling. At the top, however, the observation deck where you alight from the elevator is fully enclosed helping to bring the anxiety levels back down. Acclimatised to being 273m above the city Sarah strode up the stairs to the open air deck and was greatly impressed by the view and the size of the city sprawling out in all directions.

Following the Tour we headed back into the Marais to search out a lunch spot that we had found in our Wallpaper Guidebook. Let's just say this turned out to be a debacle that tested our tolerance of each other. We were able to have a good laugh about it when we finally sat down for a bite to eat... not at our intended spot but a cafe across the street as our intended destination was chocker block. By the time we had eaten it was time to head out to L'Ile Seguin an island on the Seine to the south of the central city. We were both excited about what was in store for us at Cirque du Soleil.

This shot is taken outside the Grand Chapiteau (Big Top) with Corteo the central character of the show whose image was on one of the trailers. We arrived an hour before the show commenced and strolled along with other patrons from the end of the Line 9 Metro along the Seine and across a pedestrian bridge onto L'Ile Senguin. With drinks in hand we entered the Grand Chapiteau around 20mins before the performance began and found our seats. We were rapt with our view. The stage was draped with a screen with an elaborate and playful image of a curtain revealing the goings on of a production about to begin.

For the next two and a half hours we were entertained by a talented cast of dancers, acrobats, clowns and musicians who transported us to a fantastical, surreal, dreamlike space where the music really assisted in creating this space. At times we were both on the edge of our seats gasping at the death defying feats of the performers. Sarah's favourite acts were the 15 person trapeze and the suspended rope duo. Mark loved the trampoline beds and the acrobatics of the seesaw catapult. We both thought the message of the show, Corteo remembering his life upon his death, was beautifully woven through the performances. If you ever get the chance to see one of these shows you must do it!

After the show we made our way back into town on the Metro which was free for New Year's Eve. We decided to get off at Trocadero again and check out what the scene was like at Tour Eiffel. It was packed! People were everywhere hooting and a hollering and it was only 8pm at this stage. We decided to head down to the Seine and see if we could grab a spot on one of the river cruises. Bateaux Parisiens were in business and so we booked a passage on the Brigitte Bardot for the 8:30pm sailing. The perspective from the Seine of the City of Lights is quite breath taking as you slip under the numerous bridges that cross the river and look up at the beautiful and varied architecture of the landmark buildings on either side of the river.

By the end of the hour long cruise we were both starting to wilt and so we made the call to head home to the apartment and see in the New Year from there. We were home just after 11pm but were that tired that we fell into bed and were asleep as soon as our heads hit the pillow. Although we didn't see in the New Year we made sure that we said goodbye to 2011 in style and Mark had something up his sleeve to get 2012 off to a cracker!

Versailles and Mass at Saint Sulpice

Day three saw us head 45 minutes out of Paris to the Sun King's opulent palace at Versailles. Walking up to the Palace from the train station you appreciate you are entering another world with the broad and dramatic incline leading you up to the Palace. Paul's advice to book our tickets online the night before paid off as we did not have to queue in the drizzle, instead heading for the entrance and waiting only a few minutes before being ushered through the security checkpoint and into the forecourt of the Palace. As with many of the monuments throughout Europe maintenance and refurbishment projects are continually taking place. And so it was here at Versailles where a replica inner wall and golden gate had been reinstalled since Mark's last visit. We entered into the wing of the Palace that houses the royal apartments and the Chapel. The glimpse through the Chapel door brings home the realisation that no cost had been spared in the construction of this space to align Louis XIV with the Almighty. Opposite the door to the Chapel we picked up our audio guides that did a great job of taking you back in time as an aristocrat who had come to the Palace to seek a glimpse of the Sun King.

We then joined the crowds and filtered through the apartments at times shoulder to shoulder to pass through the various rooms where noblemen and emissaries would seek audiences with the Sun King. Then it was into the famous Hall of Mirrors with its painted ceilings and views out the windows to the garden, canal and extensive estate that spreads out below the Chateau. Sarah was interested to see this space having studied the Treaty of Versailles in her History degree. It always brings a greater level of understanding to be able to walk in the place where these events of history have taken place and experience them first hand.

Off the Hall of Mirrors at the centre of the Palace and facing the rising sun we entered the King's bedroom that was furnished with gold everywhere. In here you really get the picture of how over the top it all is. We then circled round through the Hall of Mirrors again before entering the Queen's chambers that were lavishly adorned as well. At the end of this wing was a room with three massive paintings of Napoleon and marked the start of Museum to France's history which contained a hall of greater length to the Hall of Mirrors that had paintings of all France's great military battles through the centuries.

Following these epic pictures we headed outside to the gardens and wandered down to Mary Antionette's escapist Hamlet down at the bottom of the estate built in a medieval theme. It was great to get away from the crowds down here and spend some time wandering and imagining ourselves back in time.

Back in Paris we headed for Angelina's for one of their famous chocolat chaud only to find the queue cousin Jan had warned us of was halfway down the block. So we decided to hunt out something nearby. Landing on a Japanese joint just off Rue de Trivoli we were able to refuel our engines. Sarah opted for a donburi while Mark selected a ramen. Later that evening Mark was to regret that decision. Following the late lunch we took in another church, Saint Roch, which just happened to be nearby. Then it was time for some desert and what better to fill the gap than a chocolat crèpe, yum. We travelled on foot over to the Left Bank and passed Saint Germain des Pres in search of Saint Sulpice where we thought we might be able to make it in time for 7pm mass. We enjoyed the walk and stumbling upon a street of art galleries and funky design shops. We made it to Saint Sulpice in good time and loved the fountain lit beautiful in the square in front of the church. Despite the language barrier we were able to follow (Sarah better than Mark) the order of mass and the highlight for both of us was passing the peace where smiles bridged the language inadequacies. Sarah received Holy Communion and Mark received a blessing from a young priest. It was quite an experience attending mass with no more than forty people in a small chapel within a huge church. Certainly a mass to remember.

Day Two

We awoke to clear skies on our second day in Paris. Mark and Paul took the opportunity to get the running shoes on and headed out for a couple of laps of Parc de Buttes Chaumont that Paul had shown us the day before. After getting along at a good clip and being energised by the number of Parisien's out and about in the park running, doing Thai Chi and walking, the boys returned ready for another day in the City of Lights. Once they had showered up and we'd wrapped up warm we headed out on foot.

First stop was the patisserie where Sarah had her first encounter with pain au chocolat aux almonde. Let's just say this was not a one off experience. Mark opted for a chausson aux pommes which went down a treat as well. From there we meandered down Rue de Bellville to Bellville proper where Mark got very excited about Paul's suggestion that we utilise the wonderful Velib bike system in Paris to head into town. Sarah was not as overtly enthusiastic as Mark about the suggestion and wasn't dissapointed when the first three bike stations we came across were all empty. However by this stage Mark was using every sense in his body to sniff out bikes in a 100 metre radius and couldn't quite contain himself when a station was spotted with multiple bikes for hire. Conveniently there was a designated cycle lane adjacent to the station so Sarah was able to get to grips with her steed before embarking on our epic journey.

Tour leader Paul talked us through our game plan which would seem him on point at the front of our unit followed by Sarah and then Mark as tail end Charlie. He also mentioned that vehicles coming onto roundabouts in Paris have the right of way. So off we went with both anticipation and a little apprehension on our ride into town. Did we forget to mention that the French drive on the other side of the road! After much concentration and application our unit reached our destination of Ile de la Cité. Mark found the experience invigorating cruising along taking in the city. Sarah found the experience stressful, a picture of concentration she was unable to appreciate the surroundings as every ounce of her was focused on staying on the bike and making it to the destination in one piece. Hi fives were thrown all round when we docked our bikes at the station outside Saint Chapelle.

Saint Chapelle had been recommended to Mark by a friend who stated that it was more impressive than Notre Dame. Given the Dame's majesty we felt we needed to investigate this claim. Outside Saint Chappelle we got our first taste of queuing. Around an hour later we were entering the church. The entrance level of the church is an intimate low level vaulted space that is reasonably understated compared to the other churches in the city that dwarf you with their imposing size. However this understatedness sets you up to be completely blown away when you ascend the stairs into the chapel proper. As you emerge from the circular stairwell in the corner of the chapel you are surrounded by light streaming through 15, 20 metre high sets of stained glass windows. It is simple breathtaking. We just sat for a while in amazement at the detail and harmony of the space. Here is a pic that gives you a small taste of this glittering jewel of Paris.

Coming down from the soaring heights of Saint Chapelle Paul guided us to a lunch spot where we combatted the cold outside with soup l'ognion, another galette and creme brûlée. This hit the spot beautifully and we enjoyed taking our time over the three courses although Mark didn't let the heat of the soup slow him down. Due to our later start to the day by the time we had finished lunch it was nearing dusk so we decided to wander over to the left bank into the Latin Quarter and down to one of the oldest churches in Paris, Saint Germain des Pres where the church was first built in the 6th century. This is a great part of town with a lot of great cafes and interesting shops. The church was again very large with the highlight for Mark being a twisted column that was positioned behind the altar. Following our visit to Saint Germain we decided to have a quiet night in at Paul and Iréne's. Our hosts treated us to some lovely cheese and crackers and some great conversations before we got an early night as the plan for the next day was a trip out to Versailles.

Paris

Bonjour tout la monde.

Here we are at the start of day two of our most excellent adventure. We are staying in the 20th arrondissement with an old school friend of mine, Paul McKey, and his girlfriend Irène. Paul has been a fabulous tour guide par excellence over our first two days howing us parts of Paris you don't find in any of the guide books as well as introducing us to some fine cuisine and keeping us awake and active so we adjust as quickly as possible to the change in timezones. He also is a great photographer as witnessed by this stunning pic he snapped on our walk down to Boulevard de Bellville on a beautiful side street Rue Deyonez. I love the local checking out us and the beautiful morning from her second story apartment! Anyway back to the start of the adventure.....

In The Beginning...

After 29 hours of travel courtesy of Singapore Airlines we finally touched down at Charles Des Gaulle International Airport just after 07:00 on the morning of Jan 28th. The trip went relatively well and along with the obligatory movie marathon we were stoked to be able to catch up with the Knoxies at Changi International Airport as they were on their way to Thailand for New Years before heading off on their own adventures to Southeast Asia and India. A dip in the pool atop terminal 2 was a great way to freshen up before the 12 hour flight to Paris. It was a new experience for both of us to board the Airbus A380 (the double decker plane) and we were wrapped to find we had a spare seat beside us so one of us was able to get horizontal and enjoy a bit more sleep.

Paris greeted us with a dark cloudy morning and by the time we caught the train and metro to Paul and Irène's apartment the sun was finally getting in to gear so we were able to get a quick peek of Sacrè Coeur and Stade de France before we headed underground. We resurfaced at Jourdain Metro Station and as Paul had promised we were greeted by an amazing backdrop of Saint Jean Baptiste de Bellville Church. The short walk to the apartment really gave us a sense of the day just beginning and the lovely feeling of having finally arrived.

Paul welcomed us with a much needed cappuccino and a shower before we unpacked the scarf, gloves and hat as the temperature was fairly fresh. Paul then took us on an orientation stroll round the local neighbourhood. The 20th arrondissement is situated on a hill so within a short walk from the apartment we were presented with a magical view of the city. If you look close enough you can spot the Eiffel Tower!

This snap is taken from the top of Parc de Belleville which meanders its way down the hill to the Boulevard. One thing I love about Paris was brought home to me again on our walk and that is the graffiti art or public art. Coming to the end of one street we came across a community garden and on the walls surrounding the small garden was colourful and vibrant art. The detail below we just love.

Next stop was Parc de Buttes Chaumont a favourite of Paul's as not many tourists know about it. Located in the neighbouring 19th arrondissement the park is a transformed gypsum quarry that also descends the hill. Paul often runs in the park as the loop that borders the park is a convenient 3km. The green space was beautiful with many locals exercising. Sarah loved a cave that had a waterfall tumbling through it and out into a lake that skirted the bottom of the promontory at the centre of the park that had been created by the quarry. Once we climbed the promontory we were again afforded some great views of the city.

Following the park we headed back to the apartment for a quick breather

before striking out for the city. I was very excited about this as I was so looking forward to seeing Sarah's reaction to the grandeur and scale of the city. We caught the Line 11 metro into Rambuteau Station which saw us surface outside the Centre Georges Pompidou which is a uniquely modern building with all the services on the outside and houses collections of contemporary modern art. Paul then directed us toward a lunch option known as a galette which is a savoury crepe. Paul found the creperie that he was looking for and due to its popularity we had to kill some time. This gave us the opportunity to stroll onto Ile de la Cité and take in the mighty Notre Dame. It is quite a surreal experience witnessing this massive work of masonry for the first time. Walking across Ile de la Cité you catch glimpses of the Cathedral's two towers rising above the other buildings and as you get closer and closer the edifice continues to climb. Then as you enter the square in front of Notre Dame she is revealed in all her glory. Sarah was blown away and taken by the sheer size of the Cathedral but couldn't get over the amazing detail of the sculptures adorning the facade. We also took the opportunity to snap a pic of Sarah standing on Point Zero the marker from where all routes are measured.

After checking out Notre Dame we headed back to the creperie and had our first attempt at ordering in French. This was a humouress experience that we managed to negotiate with out to much bother due to the guidance of Paul and a wonderful French waitress. The galletes were delicious although Sarah's choice was the pick of the bunch with a beautiful cheese sauce.

Post lunch we decided to go for another wander this time up Rue de Rivoli which runs along side the Louvre. As we walked through one of the amazing arches beneath the Louvre to enter the colossal forecourt where Ming Pei's Pyramid rises up Sarah caught a glimpse of some of the treasures housed within the museum. I remember reading somewhere that the Pyramid represents the light of knowledge and as you can see from the photo lit up on dusk it is a stunning contrast to the age of the Palace. From there we walked down to Place de la Concorde through the Tuileries Gardens again marvelling at the grandeur and sense of space in this beautiful city. We decided to hang a right at Place de la Concorde and head up to Madeleine, a church built like a Greek temple. After a quick look inside we headed for a rendezvous with Paul's girlfriend Irène and some of their friends. Enroute Paul had a few more suprises including the phenomenal Opera House, a stunning view of the city from atop the Print Temp department store and a giant Christmas tree in the Gallerie Lafayette. We eventually made it back to the apartment around 8pm where we crashed into bed at the end of day one.